Paprika Brasil by Hermes for women was launched in 2006 and it’s the sixth fragrance of the Hermessence collection. In this case, the perfume maker Jean-Claude Ellena put two ingredients together: Caesalpinia echinata, a type of Brazilian tree (also known as Brazilwood) and paprika, which is woody and red-hot at the same time. The third declared note is iris. The simple and square shape of the bottle is the same used in other fragrances of the perfume house, like Bel Ami, Caleche, Eau d’Orange Verte, or the “Un Jardin by Hermes” collection.
In the opening, it shows a quite natural tone of dry pepper and paprika, which tingles the nose. It vaguely reminds of Xeryus Rouge, although it grows softer as minutes pass, in favour of a fresh and powdery floral line, similar to sweet violets. In the middle phase, after about 40 minutes, violets are dominant, with paprika now less intense, although it can still be felt in the nose with a more smoked aroma. After two hours, the two lines are still present, but paprika is less and less distinct as a separate note, and starts to blend with iris. In the final phase (after about 12 hours on test paper), iris and violet are dominant (they feel very powdery, reminding of Premier Jour perfume), with still some traces of paprika here and there.
Paprika Brazil by Hermes follows the natural, minimalistic style of other fragrances by Jean-Claude Ellena, although in this case there is less depth, and a less evocative imagery than in the Un Jardin line. The note of paprika will be dominant for the first 15 minutes, and then will leave room to a soft natural violet (it remind at times of some parts of Fendi perfume for women Palazzo), which feels more feminine than unisex (that is how the fragrance is officially categorized).
The best time of the year to wear it would be the summer, in relaxed and informal situations. It is fresh and soft enough for solitary, dynamic activities, like a walk or a session of weights in the gym, but – as it progresses – it will grow elegant enough to be socially useful. In a work environment, it will be feminine and clean, although it won’t leave a wide trail behind. For a night use, crowded venues should be avoided, due to its mild intensity, whereas dinners with small circles of friends in quiet restaurants will be the best scenarios. For a romantic use, the fragrance has good potential, as paprika will draw attention at the beginning, and then violet will feel feminine. The ideal age range would go from 25 to 60, although it would feel more natural on women over 30.